Local businesses getting the jump on slow food by John Barlow
Okotoks Western Wheel, November 1, 2006

Representatives from three foothills businesses are currently in Italy in hopes of giving the slow food movement a push in Canada.

More than 5,000 sustainable food processors from around the world will be in Turin, Italy this week participating in the second terra Madre conference.

The conference includes a diverse sampling of producers from farmers, ranchers, fisherman, chefs, bakers, cheese makers, wine makers and brew-masters.

Southern Alberta will also be represented at the conference.

Penny and Tony Marshall, who operate Highwood Crossing Organic Farm near Aldersyde, will be attending for the second time. Joining them will be Cherie and Art Andrews of Chinook Honey company in Okotoks and chef Mark Klaudt of Route 40 Soup co. in Turner Valley.

Marshall said participating in the conference is a wonderful opportunity to share ideas with producers who have similar ideals regarding the promotion of the slow food movement.

Marshall admitted Canada is far behind European countries in terms of growing and marketing organic products, but he said the idea of sustainable food is catching on in North America.     

“We come together with 5,000 like-minded people and we realize are not far off base,” said Marshall. “We see that our toxic rescue agriculture practices in North America are not really the norm.”

Highwood Crossing has been in the Marshall family for 107 years and several years ago the family returned to farming with more traditional methods – being chemical free. “It was a big decision on our part,” admitted Marshall.

However, it is a decision that has paid dividends.

Now Highwood Crossing is producing a wide range of organic products including flax and canola oil and hot and cold cereals.

The value added opportunities have helped the Marshall family farm remain visible in a struggling agriculture industry.

Attending Terra Madre is an opportunity for the Marshalls to discuss production, marketing and business models – something most farmers do not have to do.

“Before, farmers dropped off their yield at an elevator and waited for a cheque,” said Marshall. “Now we look after packaging, marketing and accounts. We are not longer farmers, it’s a business.”

Improving her business is also why Cherie Andrews is excited about the opportunity.

Andres is currently developing a honey wine or mead business and Terra Madre is an outstanding opportunity to learn more about the process.

“We have a vague idea of how other countries handle honey and it is very different from Canada,” said Andrews. “They have a different attitude where it is quality over quantity.”

Quality has always been the mantra at Route 40 Soup Co. and Klaudt is “pumped” about the opportunity to attend the conference.

“It will open my eyes to see how much further advanced they are and to see the potential we have here in Alberta,” said Klaudt, who is one of 20 Canadian chefs attending. “I am stoked. I hope to bring back some ideas for growers and producers here.”